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CASE DIAMETER – 39mm, excluding crown Visiting the De Bethune manufacture in the picturesque village of L’Auberson in the Swiss Jura mountains is quite an impressive experience. I did a terrible job of explaining it, but you kind of need to play it to get the jist. Bacs, who began his career as a watch specialist with Sotheby’s, has worked up the ranks to become the single most important player in the watch-auction industry, breaking record after record, including having sold the most expensive wristwatch ever at auction. The letters that will now enrich the collection of the Breguet Museum were sent to Moreau by Breguet senior and junior. Brought to auction by Moreau’s descendants through the grade Aguttes auction house, they provide fascinating insights into the business activities of Breguet during its founder’s lifetime.
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The brand’s first chronograph movement, caliber 20H, was introduced 11 years later. These are three words that would describe the trend going on in the world of watches.
Framed by a 42 mm polished and satin-brushed case with a blue sapphire cabochon to adorn the crown, the dial is enhanced by skeletonized hour and minute hands in white gold, screw-mounted gold chatons, ruby-red jewels, blued screws and gilt engravings. In fact, it was so good that I ending up buying a Heritage Chrono. Ad – Scroll to continue with article A contemporary side highlights mechanics in pure De Bethune style. The chronograph sweep is a pretty classic looking spear while the 30 minute counter is a syringe hand and the hour counter is an arrow. Although all the hands are different shapes, they’re all the same color. All the hands except the running seconds hand are lumed with Superluminova. Plus the classic Gavox “V” at the top and the square ticks on the dial’s outer perimeter are lumed as well. In the 1990s, Franck Muller introduced a number of chronographs.
Oddly, most of the Rodneys I have restored and it’s been about a dozen have all used 30. 6mm crystals. This bezel requires a 30. 0mm crystal.
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